Angkor

Angkor was the capital of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to the 15th century: a metropolis that at its height may have housed close to a million people, larger than any European city of the time. The hydraulic infrastructure alone, a network of reservoirs and channels covering 1,000 square kilometres, is considered one of the most sophisticated pre-industrial engineering achievements on earth.

Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument ever built. Its five sandstone towers represent the five peaks of Mount Meru; its outer gallery of bas-reliefs depicts more than a thousand square metres of continuous narrative (the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, the Battle of Kurukshetra) carved in detail that rewards a full day of examination. The wider archaeological park contains hundreds of temples, many of them far from the main circuits. Ta Prohm, where the roots of giant silk-cotton and strangler fig trees have grown through the stonework, is the most visited; Preah Khan, which covers the same area and sees a fraction of the visitors, is more rewarding.

Siem Reap, the gateway town, has been transformed by boutique hotel investment over the past decade without losing the Cambodian character of its old market and river district. The floating villages on Tonlé Sap Lake (the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, which reverses its flow direction twice a year) are an hour from town and offer a different scale of Cambodian life entirely.

Seeing Angkor well is a matter of timing and pace. Passes are sold for one, three or seven days, and three days is the minimum to see the major temples without rushing. The heat is intense in the middle of the day, so the best plan is to start early, rest at your hotel through the afternoon and return for the late light.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat, reflected in the pools in front of the western entrance, is the most famous sight, and it is crowded. A good alternative is to watch the sunrise and then go straight to a temple that is empty at that hour, returning to Angkor Wat later in the morning, when the sunrise crowds have left for breakfast.

Angkor Thom, the walled city built by Jayavarman VII in the late twelfth century, is entered through gates guarded by rows of stone gods and demons. At its centre, the Bayon has more than two hundred serene faces carved into its towers. The Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King, nearby, have striking carvings. Banteay Srei, around forty minutes north, is small but exquisite, with intricate carvings in pink sandstone. Further afield, Beng Mealea, a vast temple largely left in ruins and overgrown by the forest, and the sacred mountain of Phnom Kulen, with its river of carved lingas, make rewarding day trips.

A good guide makes a real difference at Angkor, explaining the Hindu and Buddhist stories carved on the walls, the architecture and the history of the Khmer Empire. The temples can also be explored by bicycle, tuk-tuk or car, and cycling on the quieter routes between the smaller temples is a pleasure in the early morning.

The best time to visit is from November to February, when the weather is dry and relatively cool. March to May is extremely hot. The rainy season, from June to October, brings green landscapes, dramatic skies and far fewer visitors, and the moats and reservoirs fill with water.

Siem Reap's international airport, which opened in 2023, is around an hour from town. The town has a lively food scene, with Khmer dishes such as amok, fish steamed in coconut curry, and lok lak, stir-fried beef with a pepper and lime dipping sauce. Phare, a Cambodian circus that trains young people from disadvantaged backgrounds, gives memorable evening performances.

Dress modestly when visiting the temples, covering shoulders and knees, as this is required at some sites, including the upper level of Angkor Wat.