Ha Long Bay

Nearly 2,000 limestone karst islands rise from emerald waters, creating a seascape of extraordinary drama. The bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, though most visitors see only its famous peaks from crowded cruise decks.

We take a different approach. Private junk boats with maximum eight guests, access to Lan Ha Bay's quieter southern reaches, kayaking into hidden lagoons only reachable at low tide, and nights anchored in silence away from the floating villages.

The weather on Vietnam's northern coast is most settled in October and November and again from March to May. Winter is cool and often misty, which softens the karsts but limits the views, and summer brings heat, storms and the occasional typhoon. We time every itinerary around the light.

The bay lies in Quang Ninh province, around two and a half hours by expressway from Hanoi. Most cruises leave from the marinas near Ha Long city, and that is where the crowds are thickest: a few hundred boats follow similar routes past the same caves and viewpoints. Lan Ha Bay, to the south near Cat Ba Island, has the same limestone scenery with fewer boats and more sheltered water for kayaking and swimming. Bai Tu Long Bay, to the northeast, is quieter still. Choosing where you sail matters more than choosing a boat.

A single night on board is the minimum worth doing. Day trips spend much of their time in transit and see the bay at its busiest, around midday. An overnight cruise gives you the late afternoon and early morning, when the light is soft and the water is calm, and a chance to kayak or swim when the day boats have gone. Two nights allow a slower pace, with time on Cat Ba Island or deeper into Lan Ha.

The classic stops include Sung Sot, a large cave with chambers of stalactites, and Ti Top Island, where a steep staircase leads to a view over the bay. Both are rewarding but crowded at peak times. Many of the floating fishing villages that once dotted the bay were relocated to the mainland in 2014, though some fishing families still work the waters and a few small communities remain in Lan Ha.

In summer, the authorities suspend sailings when storms approach, sometimes at short notice. If you travel between June and October, keep a spare day in your plan and choose a cruise with a clear rebooking policy. The bay is sheltered, so seasickness is rarely a problem once you are among the islands.

Pack light layers for cool evenings on deck, swimwear, and shoes that grip on wet rocks for cave visits and kayak landings. Most cabins are compact, so a soft bag is easier than a large suitcase. Combine the bay with Hanoi, and with Ninh Binh inland, whose river valleys and rice fields offer similar limestone scenery on land.

A two-night plan makes the most of the journey from Hanoi. Leave the city early on the first day, board around midday and spend the afternoon among the islands, with a kayak session in a sheltered lagoon before dinner on deck. On the second day, sail deeper into Lan Ha Bay, stopping at a quiet beach, a fishing area or a cave, and anchor for the night in a cove away from the main routes. Rise early on the final morning, when mist often sits on the water and the karsts appear one by one, before returning to port and driving back to Hanoi or on to Ninh Binh.

Boats vary enormously. Large cruise ships offer spacious cabins, spas and big dining rooms, but they follow the busiest routes and carry dozens of passengers. Smaller vessels and private junks cost more per person but can change their plans with the weather and the crowds, and they anchor in places the bigger ships cannot reach. Ask how many cabins a boat has, where it anchors overnight and whether kayaking is included before you book. Food on board is usually a highlight, with fresh seafood, and many boats can adapt menus for dietary needs if you tell them in advance.