Seoul Palaces & Bukchon Hanok Village at Dawn

Gyeongbokgung, the Palace of Shining Happiness, was built in 1395 as the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, which ruled Korea for more than five hundred years. It was burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, left in ruins for around two and a half centuries and rebuilt in the 1860s. During the Japanese colonial period in the early twentieth century, most of its buildings were demolished to make way for a government headquarters. A long restoration programme, begun in 1990, has since rebuilt many of the palace's halls and gates, and work continues.

The walk begins at 9:00 AM at Gwanghwamun Gate, the palace's main entrance, guarded by stone haetae, mythical creatures said to protect against fire and disaster. The royal guard changing ceremony at the gate, a re-enactment of a Joseon-era ritual with guards in traditional costume, drums and flags, is held on a regular schedule, usually in the morning and early afternoon, though times and days can change and the ceremony is cancelled in bad weather. Your guide confirms the schedule.

Inside the palace, the walk passes through Geunjeongmun, the gate to the main courtyard, and Geunjeongjeon, the throne hall, where kings held audiences and ceremonies, standing on two tiers of stone with carved animal guardians. Behind it, the elegant pavilion of Gyeonghoeru stands on an artificial lake, and the queen's quarters and garden show a more intimate side of court life. Your guide explains the rules of court etiquette, the role of the king and how the palace was organised around Confucian principles.

From the palace, a short walk leads to Bukchon Hanok Village, between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces. Its name means North Village, and for centuries it was home to nobles and officials. The lanes here are lined with traditional Korean houses, hanok, with curved tile roofs, wooden beams and courtyards. Many are still homes, so the area is quiet in the early morning, but it has become popular with visitors, and the local authorities have introduced restrictions on visiting hours and noise. Please keep your voice down, do not enter private property and respect the residents.

From viewpoints on the lanes above Gahoe-dong, you look south over a sea of tile roofs to the towers of modern Seoul, one of the most photographed views in the city. Some hanok now house cafés, craft workshops and small museums, and your guide leads you to a traditional teahouse for a cup of tea, perhaps with rice cakes or sweets.

The best times to visit are spring and autumn. In summer, the palace is hot and humid, and in winter, cold but often clear, with snow on the roofs.

Wear comfortable shoes for the hilly lanes. Visitors in hanbok, the traditional Korean dress, may enter the palace free of charge, and rental shops nearby make this easy.

The walk lasts around five hours. An expert guide, Gyeongbokgung entry, the guard ceremony viewing, an early-morning walk in Bukchon and tea at a hanok teahouse are included.