Seoul

Seoul has been the capital of Korea for over six hundred years. The Joseon dynasty built Gyeongbokgung Palace in 1395: 330 buildings organised on strict Confucian axes, largely destroyed by Japanese occupation, then rebuilt to reclaim national memory. The palace that stands today is as much a historical argument as an architectural achievement.

The city of nearly ten million people organises itself around mountains: Bukhansan to the north, Namsan at the centre, the Han River cutting across the middle. The Bukchon Hanok Village, on the slope between two palaces, preserves hundreds of traditional tile-roofed houses in daily residential use: not a theme park, but a neighbourhood where people live. The food culture operates at a specificity that makes Seoul one of the world's essential eating cities: dozens of Michelin-starred restaurants, but also the pojangmacha tent-stalls serving fish cake soup and soju late into the night.

The traditional jjimjilbang bathhouse is Korea's most democratic social institution: open 24 hours, used by everyone from students to company directors, organised around gender-segregated hot baths and a communal heated floor where families sleep overnight. Entry is inexpensive. The DMZ, ninety minutes by bus from the city centre, is one of the most visited and least understood tourist sites in Asia.

Seoul has five royal palaces, and they are best seen early in the day. Gyeongbokgung is the largest, with the changing of the guard ceremony at its main gate. Changdeokgung, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is set more naturally into the hills, and its Secret Garden, visited on guided tours with limited numbers, is one of the most beautiful places in the city, especially in autumn. Visitors wearing hanbok, the traditional Korean dress, enter the palaces free of charge, and rental shops nearby make it easy to join in.

The city's neighbourhoods each have their own character. Insadong has tea houses, galleries and craft shops. Ikseon-dong, a small area of hanok converted into cafés and restaurants, is one of the most charming corners of the old city. Myeongdong is a shopping district famous for cosmetics and street food. Hongdae, around the art university, is the centre of live music and youth culture. Seongsu-dong, a former industrial area, has become the city's most fashionable neighbourhood for cafés and design shops.

The Han River parks, running along both banks, are where Seoul relaxes, with cycling paths, picnic areas and summer night markets. The hike up Bukhansan, the mountain that rises above the city to the north, is a popular weekend activity, with granite peaks and temples along the way. Namsan Seoul Tower, on a hill in the centre, offers views over the whole city.

Korean food goes far beyond barbecue. Bibimbap, rice topped with vegetables and chilli paste; naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles; and samgyetang, a whole chicken soup with ginseng, are classics. Gwangjang Market, one of the oldest markets in the city, is known for bindaetteok, mung bean pancakes fried to order, and for its lively food stalls.

The best seasons are spring, from April to May, when cherry blossoms and azaleas bloom, and autumn, from September to November, when the hills turn red and gold. Summer is hot, humid and wet, with a monsoon in July, and winter is cold and dry, often well below freezing.

Incheon International Airport is around an hour from the centre by express train. The metro is excellent, and a prepaid transport card works on trains, buses and taxis. Four days suits the city, with a day trip to the DMZ or to Suwon's fortress.