Private DMZ Day with the Odusan Observatory, from Seoul

The Demilitarized Zone has divided the Korean peninsula since the 1953 armistice that stopped the Korean War, and it is one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world. Many visits are group coach tours on a fixed schedule. This one is a private day, with your own guide and a private vehicle, and it follows a route linked to the infiltration of North Korean spy commandos rather than the usual sequence of stops.

The drive from Seoul is comfortable, and your guide uses it to explain the history of the war and the tension that remains. The route passes the site where North Korean commandos fought with combined South Korean and American special forces. You then stop at Imjingak Peace Park, where war artefacts, artillery and military bunkers stand, and walk along the DMZ's barbed-wire fence at a South Korean military outpost, past soldiers on patrol. Lunch is a meal of North Korean specialities, including barbecued duck, with vegetarian options available.

The end of the day is the Odusan observation point. From there you can see a working North Korean farming village about two kilometres away across the river. Then you ride back to Seoul. The listing gives the day as ten hours, with pickup and drop-off included.

The practical rules are strict. You need your original, valid passport on the day, and the operator asks for each traveller's full name, date of birth, phone number and nationality before the tour. Confirmation arrives within 48 hours of booking and depends on availability. There is a moderate amount of walking, so wear comfortable shoes, and the tour is not suitable for people with mobility impairments or for wheelchair users.

The DMZ is a strip of land about four kilometres wide and roughly 250 kilometres long that crosses the peninsula. It follows the armistice signed on 27 July 1953, which ended the fighting but not the war, since no peace treaty followed. Imjingak Peace Park lies beside the Imjin River north of Seoul, and the Odusan observation point is near the place where the Han and Imjin rivers meet, so the day is a drive north-west from the capital with short guided stops. Because it is a military area, access rules can change at short notice; ask the operator what to expect on your date.

It is run by DMZ Spy Tour Inc and booked through GetYourGuide, with free cancellation up to 24 hours before the start. It suits travellers who want an informed, unhurried day at the border and are willing to pay for privacy; if you are happy to share a coach, standard group tours from Seoul cost far less.