Perhentian Islands

The Perhentian Islands sit off Malaysia's northeast coast, two small islands, Besar and Kecil, ringed by water clear enough that reef fish are visible from a standing longtail boat before anyone puts a mask on. Unlike Malaysia's more developed island destinations, the Perhentians have deliberately limited large-scale resort development, no roads connect the beaches, and the interior remains dense jungle, which has kept the water quality and the pace of life largely unchanged for two decades.

The islands split naturally by character: Kecil for budget travellers and a genuine backpacker social scene, Besar for a quieter, more upscale stay with wider stretches of empty sand. Both share the same reef access, sea turtles nest on several of the beaches between May and September, and reef sharks are a routine, unremarkable sighting on an afternoon snorkel rather than a special excursion.

Getting there is part of the charm. The islands are reached by speedboat from the jetty at Kuala Besut on the mainland, a crossing of around thirty to forty-five minutes. The nearest airport is Kota Bharu, about an hour's drive from the jetty, with flights from Kuala Lumpur. There are no roads or cars on the islands; water taxis and jungle paths connect the beaches.

The season is short and defined by the northeast monsoon. From around November to February, heavy seas close most resorts and boat services, and the islands become largely inaccessible. The best time to visit is from April to September, when the sea is calm and visibility at its best. March and October are shoulder months, with fewer visitors and occasional rough days.

The beaches each have their own character. On Kecil, Long Beach is the liveliest, with small cafés and a social scene in the evenings, while Coral Bay on the west side is quieter and known for its sunsets. On Besar, the beaches along the west coast have the widest sand and the most comfortable resorts, and Turtle Beach on the north coast is one of the nesting sites. Several snorkelling spots, including Shark Point and the rocks off Teluk Pauh, are reachable by short boat trips, and the waters around the islands have good dive sites for beginners and experienced divers alike, including the Sugar Wreck, a sunken cargo ship.

The islands are part of a marine park, and a conservation fee is charged on arrival. Do not touch or stand on the coral, and follow guidelines when watching turtles, especially at night on nesting beaches, where lights and noise can disturb them.

The Perhentians lie in the state of Terengganu, which is more conservative than the west coast of Malaysia. Alcohol is available in only a few places, and it is respectful to cover up away from the beach. There are no ATMs on the islands, so bring enough cash for your stay. Electricity in smaller guesthouses may run only part of the day, and internet access is limited, which is part of the appeal for many visitors.

Allow at least three nights to enjoy the islands properly, and combine them with Kuala Lumpur or the Cameron Highlands for a longer trip through Malaysia.

A typical four-day stay might start with an afternoon crossing from Kuala Besut and an evening on the beach. Spend the next day on a boat trip around both islands, with snorkelling stops at the main reefs, lunch on a quiet beach and time watching turtles grazing on seagrass. On the third day, try a discover-scuba dive or a longer dive trip if you are certified, or walk the jungle trails between beaches, where monitor lizards and hornbills are common. Keep the last morning free for a final swim before the boat back to the mainland.

Accommodation ranges from simple beach huts to comfortable resorts with air-conditioning and good restaurants. Besar has most of the larger resorts and suits families and couples; Kecil has more guesthouses and a younger crowd. Booking ahead is wise in July and August, when the islands are busiest with visitors from Malaysia and abroad.

The islands are a good place to learn to dive. The water is warm, the reefs are shallow and varied, and several dive centres offer courses at reasonable prices. Always check a centre's safety standards and the condition of its equipment before you book.