Guilin

Guilin is the landscape that painters have returned to for more than a thousand years. In the northeast of Guangxi, the Li River winds between hundreds of steep limestone peaks, rising from paddy fields and bamboo groves in shapes that locals have named after elephants, camels and sleeping dragons. The scene on the back of China's twenty-yuan banknote was drawn from this stretch of river, which explains why it was chosen, and why so many visitors recognise it on sight.

The Li River cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo is the classic way in, covering roughly eighty kilometres in four to five hours, past water buffalo, fishing villages and the river's most famous bends near Xingping. The larger boats are comfortable and well organised, but they travel in convoy. A quieter alternative is a bamboo-style raft on the Xingping stretch, where fewer people reach the banknote viewpoint, followed by a short climb up a nearby hill for the view from above.

Yangshuo, at the southern end of the river, makes the best base for the surrounding countryside. The town itself is busy, particularly around West Street, but the landscape opens up just a few minutes outside it. Cycling along the Yulong River, on quiet lanes between rice paddies and karst peaks, is one of the most enjoyable ways to spend a day anywhere in China. Bamboo rafts drift down the Yulong at a slow pace, poled by local boatmen who make the whole thing look easy.

The Longji rice terraces, around two hours north of Guilin, are the region's other highlight. Zhuang and Yao communities carved them into the mountainsides over centuries, and the terraces climb like contour lines toward the ridges. Ping'an and Dazhai are the main bases, with trails linking viewpoints across the slopes. Through the year, the terraces change completely: flooded and reflective in spring, bright green by early summer, gold before the autumn harvest. Near Huangluo, Yao women are known for hair often more than a metre long, traditionally cut only once in a lifetime.

In Guilin city itself, Reed Flute Cave holds limestone formations lit in bright colours, and Elephant Trunk Hill, a natural rock arch over the river, has become the city's symbol. Most travellers still spend their time in the countryside rather than in town, though the city is pleasant enough, with lakes and parks at its centre. Guilin rice noodles, in a rich broth with peanuts and pickles, make a good local breakfast worth seeking out before you leave.

The best time to visit runs from April to October, with two caveats: heavy rain in May and June can raise the river enough to suspend cruises, and summer brings real heat and humidity. September and October bring clearer skies and gold terraces. Winter can drop the river low enough that cruises start further downstream, but the mist over the landscape is striking, and the crowds thin out considerably.

Guilin has an international airport with connections across China and to some regional hubs, and high-speed trains link Guilin and Yangshuo with Guangzhou, Shenzhen and other major cities. Three to four days is enough to see the river, the countryside around Yangshuo and the rice terraces without rushing.

A four-day outline covers the essentials. Day one is the Li River itself, Guilin to Yangshuo by boat, or a shorter raft trip combined with the viewpoint near Xingping. Day two means cycling the Yulong valley, a bamboo raft for the return leg, Moon Hill by late afternoon. On day three, head north to Longji and stay overnight in Ping'an or Dazhai, which puts you on the viewpoints at sunrise, long before the day visitors arrive. The fourth day is for walking between villages, then back to Guilin for the evening and a last bowl of rice noodles.

A few practical points make the trip easier. Pack sturdy shoes, since the stone paths on the terraces turn steep and slippery after rain, and bring a light rain jacket whatever the season. Porters in Ping'an and Dazhai will carry luggage up to the village guesthouses for a fee, worth paying given the climb. Yangshuo itself has plenty of small countryside hotels, quieter than the centre and often with views of the peaks, and mobile payment through Alipay or WeChat Pay is standard now, both apps accepting foreign cards. Most river trips and terrace visits start early, so keep evenings simple and go to bed on time.

Long-time residents guide here, and they know the quieter stretches of river, the cycling routes that avoid the tour buses, and the best viewpoints for the terraces in each season.