Kashmir

Kashmir is a high-altitude valley at 1,585 metres, surrounded by the Pir Panjal range to the south and the Great Himalayas to the north, producing a climate that is temperate in summer while the Indian plains below are at 45°C. The Mughal emperors made it their summer retreat and laid out terraced gardens such as Shalimar and Nishat on the shores of Dal Lake, where a lake culture of shikaras and houseboats grew up, which now provide some of the most characterful accommodation in South Asia.

A traditional Dal Lake houseboat is a wooden structure with carved walnut panels, hand-knotted carpets, and a sun deck facing the mountains, the owner's family cooks meals and poles a shikara to the shore for shopping. The experience has not changed in its essential form since the 1890s. The Srinagar old city around Jhelum Ghat preserves 14th-century mosque architecture and a craft tradition (walnut wood carving, pashmina weaving, papier-mâché) that was once the most refined in the Mughal world.

The Gulmarg meadow at 2,650 metres, accessible by gondola, becomes a ski resort in winter and a wildflower meadow in summer. The Sonamarg valley, the gateway to the Himalayan passes, provides trekking through a landscape where the Indian subcontinent visibly meets the Central Asian plateau. The Amarnath pilgrimage route, used by hundreds of thousands of Hindu pilgrims each year, passes through one of the most dramatically beautiful mountain environments in the world.

Before planning a trip, check your government's current travel advice. Many governments advise against travel to parts of Jammu and Kashmir because of the risk of terrorism and civil unrest, and the situation can change quickly. Some travel insurance policies do not cover trips made against official advice. Mobile internet may be restricted at times, and prepaid SIM cards from other Indian states do not work in the region.

Srinagar's Mughal gardens are at their best from spring to autumn. Shalimar Bagh, laid out by Emperor Jahangir for his wife, Nur Jahan, descends in terraces with water channels and fountains. Nishat Bagh, the largest, has views across the lake to the mountains. Pari Mahal, a small garden on a hillside above the lake, is especially beautiful in the late afternoon light.

In the old city, the Jamia Masjid, with its wooden pillars and courtyard garden, is one of the largest mosques in Kashmir. The Khanqah of Shah-i-Hamadan, on the banks of the Jhelum River, is a wooden shrine with intricately painted interiors. The Hazratbal shrine, on the northern shore of Dal Lake, holds a relic of the Prophet and draws large crowds on religious occasions.

Early mornings on Dal Lake are memorable. The floating vegetable market, where farmers trade produce from their boats at dawn, is one of the most unusual markets in Asia. A shikara ride through the quieter channels and floating gardens of the lake shows the daily life of the families who live on the water.

Beyond Srinagar, Pahalgam sits in a valley of pine forests and rivers, and is a base for walks and treks. Gulmarg is one of India's best ski areas in winter, with one of the highest gondolas in the world. Sonamarg leads to the high passes and glaciers of the Himalaya.

Kashmiri cuisine is rich and distinctive. The wazwan, a ceremonial feast of many courses, includes rogan josh, lamb in a red sauce, and gushtaba, meatballs in yoghurt. Kahwa, green tea with saffron, almonds and cardamom, is served throughout the day.

The best time to visit is from April to October, with spring bringing tulips and blossom, summer ideal for trekking, and autumn turning the chinar trees red and gold. Winter brings snow and skiing. Srinagar airport has flights from Delhi and other Indian cities.