Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur's Petronas Towers held the title of world's tallest building for six years after completion, and the skyline they anchor has become one of Southeast Asia's most recognisable, but the city's real character sits below it: a three-way multicultural mix, Malay, Chinese, and Indian, that shows up most clearly at the table. Jalan Alor's night market, Chinatown's Petaling Street, and Brickfields' Little India each run on entirely different culinary traditions within a few kilometres of each other.

Batu Caves, a limestone hill turned Hindu shrine reached via 272 rainbow-painted steps, sits twenty minutes north of the centre and draws pilgrims and photographers in roughly equal number. The colonial-era core around Merdeka Square, Mughal-influenced railway architecture standing beside British administrative buildings, adds a layer of history the modern skyline glosses over.

We walk the city's three food districts with a local guide who orders in whichever language the stall owner speaks, and arrange an early Batu Caves visit ahead of the tour-bus crowds that arrive by mid-morning.

The city grew from a tin-mining settlement at the confluence of two rivers in the mid-nineteenth century, and the spot where the Klang and Gombak rivers meet is marked by the Masjid Jamek, one of the oldest mosques in the city. The River of Life project has transformed the riverbanks around it, with walkways and evening light displays. Nearby, the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, with its copper domes and clock tower, faces Merdeka Square, where Malaysia's independence was declared in 1957.

The city's religious diversity is visible within a short walk. The Sri Mahamariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in the city, is on the edge of Chinatown, close to the Sin Sze Si Ya Chinese temple. The National Mosque, with its star-shaped roof, and the Islamic Arts Museum, one of the finest in Asia, are near the Perdana Botanical Gardens, a large park at the heart of the city.

Thaipusam, the Hindu festival held in January or February, draws huge crowds to the Batu Caves, with devotees carrying elaborate offerings up the steps. Chinese New Year and Hari Raya, marking the end of Ramadan, are also celebrated across the city, with open houses where friends and neighbours share food.

The food is the city's greatest pleasure. Nasi lemak, rice cooked in coconut milk and served with sambal, anchovies, peanuts and egg, is the national dish, eaten at any time of day. Roti canai, a flaky flatbread with curry, is a breakfast staple at mamak stalls, the Indian Muslim eateries that stay open late. Char kway teow, fried rice noodles with prawns and cockles, and Hokkien mee, thick noodles in dark soy sauce, are Chinese classics. Banana leaf rice, served in Brickfields, is a South Indian meal eaten with your hands.

The weather is hot and humid all year, with heavy afternoon rain, especially from October to December and in April. The drier months, from June to August, are a good time to visit, though rain can fall at any time. Malls, museums and covered walkways provide shelter from the heat.

KLIA, the international airport, is around thirty minutes from the city by express train. Getting around is easy with the metro, monorail and ride-hailing apps. The city is a good base for trips to the Cameron Highlands, Melaka and the islands of the east coast.

Three days is a good fit: the colonial centre and Chinatown first, the Petronas Towers and the parks next, then Batu Caves and the food districts.