Phi Phi Islands

The Phi Phi Islands occupy a narrow stretch of the Andaman Sea between Phuket and Krabi: two main islands and four smaller ones, all ringed by limestone cliffs and turquoise water.

Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh became famous for a film. That fame transformed it, then nearly destroyed it. Thailand closed it from 2018 to early 2022; the coral recovered and the blacktip reef sharks returned. It reopened with strict limits: boats may no longer enter the bay itself, visitor numbers are capped, swimming in the bay is banned, and visitors land at a pier on the far side of the island and walk in.

The result is a bay worth visiting again, provided you arrive first. We book the earliest permitted entry: the cliff walls glow amber, the water is glass, and you have perhaps twenty minutes before the first shared boats round the headland.

Our approach to Phi Phi is tidal and strategic. We go where most tours don't, at the hours they haven't thought to book.

Maya Bay now also closes each year, usually in August and September, to give the reef time to recover. Check the dates before planning, and expect the rules to continue evolving as the park authorities monitor the bay.

Koh Phi Phi Don, the larger island, is the only one with accommodation. There are no cars; paths and longtail boats link the beaches. Tonsai village, on the narrow isthmus at the centre, is busy, with bars and nightlife that can be loud late into the night. The viewpoint above the village, reached by a steep climb of around thirty minutes, offers the classic view of the two bays. Long Beach, a short boat ride from the village, and the resorts on the northeast coast, including Laem Tong, are far quieter.

Around the islands, Pileh Lagoon, an enclosed basin of emerald water, Monkey Beach and Bamboo Island are the other main stops for boat trips. Snorkelling is good at several sites, and the area is popular for diving, with reef sharks, turtles and leopard sharks at some sites.

The best time to visit is from November to April, when the Andaman Sea is calm and visibility is good. From May to October, the southwest monsoon brings rain and rougher seas, and boat trips can be cancelled. The 2004 tsunami hit Phi Phi Don hard, and evacuation routes and warning signs are now in place across the island.

Ferries run from Phuket and Krabi, taking around one and a half to two hours; speedboats are faster but less comfortable in rough seas. A national park fee is charged for visits to Phi Phi Leh and Maya Bay, and a small fee on arrival at Phi Phi Don.

Staying at least one night on Phi Phi Don gives you early mornings and late afternoons around the islands, when the day-trip boats from Phuket and Krabi have gone. Two or three nights allow time for snorkelling, diving and quieter beaches.

A three-day plan lets you avoid the busiest hours. On the first day, arrive by ferry, settle into a hotel away from Tonsai and climb to the viewpoint for sunset. On the second day, take a private longtail boat at the earliest permitted time to Phi Phi Leh, visiting Maya Bay from the landing pier, Pileh Lagoon and the snorkelling spots along the coast before the day-trip boats arrive. Spend the afternoon on a quiet beach. On the third day, visit Bamboo Island for its white sand and snorkelling, or take a dive trip to nearby reefs.

Accommodation on Phi Phi Don ranges from simple bungalows to comfortable resorts. Staying in Tonsai puts you close to restaurants and the ferry pier, but noise from the bars can continue late. Long Beach, Laem Tong and the other beaches on the northern and eastern coasts are much quieter, though they require a boat transfer.

The islands have faced serious challenges from waste and overcrowding. Bring a refillable water bottle, avoid single-use plastic and respect the rules in the national park, including those at Maya Bay, which exist to allow the reef to recover.