Koh Samui

Koh Samui lies in the Gulf of Thailand, off the coast of Surat Thani province, and it is reached by its own airport or by ferry from the mainland. It sits on the opposite side of the peninsula from Phuket and Krabi, which affects both the scenery and the weather. The island is also the gateway to Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, and to the Ang Thong National Marine Park, an archipelago of limestone islands to the northwest.

The coastline is divided between beach resorts and quieter fishing villages. Chaweng and Lamai are the busiest beaches, with shops, restaurants and nightlife. Bophut's Fisherman's Village, on the north coast, has a walking street of old shophouses turned into restaurants. The southern coast around Thong Krut is much quieter and is the starting point for boats to the small uninhabited islands of Koh Mudsum and Koh Tan, which are known for white sand, snorkelling and a few pigs that live on the beach.

The interior is more varied than the beach resorts suggest. The Big Buddha at Wat Phra Yai sits on a small headland on the north coast, and the nearby Wat Plai Laem has a large Guanyin statue beside a pond. Wat Khunaram holds the mummified monk, a preserved monk displayed seated in a glass case. The Namuang waterfalls, in the island's centre, are a place to swim in the wetter months. Jungle trails in the hills are best explored with a driver who knows the roads.

The weather differs from the Andaman coast. The main dry season runs from around January to April, and March to May is hot. Unlike the west coast of Thailand, Samui's heaviest rain falls between October and December, which can interrupt boat trips and ferries. Many visitors choose between the dry months and the shoulder season for lower prices.

Getting around the island is easiest by private car or driver, because public transport is limited and taxis are costly. Scooters are widely rented, but check that your travel insurance covers them. For day trips, a private driver is often cheaper per person than separate organised tours, particularly for families.

Three to four days covers the island's temples, a boat day to the southern islets or Ang Thong, and time on a beach. Choose Bophut or the north coast for a quieter base, Chaweng for nightlife, and the south or west coast for seclusion.