Krabi

Krabi is a province on the Andaman Sea coast of southern Thailand, and its landscape is the reason most people come. Steep limestone cliffs rise straight out of the sea and the mangroves, and hundreds of small islands lie scattered offshore. The provincial capital, Krabi Town, sits on a river estuary and is a practical base, but most visitors stay on the coast at Ao Nang, where the beach road runs along a bay of longtail boats, restaurants and dive shops.

Much of the best scenery is reached only by water. Railay, a peninsula cut off from the mainland by cliffs, has no road access, and boats from Ao Nang run to its beaches in a few minutes. Further out lie the Hong Islands, known for a lagoon with a circle of cliffs around it, and Koh Poda and the other islands that make up the classic four-island circuit. The water is clear enough for snorkelling in many places, and the reefs are healthiest away from the busiest beaches.

The choice of boat shapes the day. Shared longtail boats and speedboats carry large groups on a fixed circuit, and the popular stops fill by late morning. A private longtail changes the experience: the captain can start before the crowds, linger where the water is quiet and skip a beach that has become busy. The wooden longtail, named for the long propeller shaft that trails behind the engine, is slower than a speedboat but gets close to the cliffs and into shallow water.

Away from the sea, the province offers other days out. Tiger Cave Temple, in the hills outside Krabi Town, is reached by a long staircase to a hilltop shrine with wide views. The Emerald Pool and hot springs lie inland in a forest reserve, and there are elephant sanctuaries in the area where visitors can watch the animals without riding them. Rock climbing at Railay is a draw in its own right, with routes on every grade above the beaches.

The weather decides the calendar. The dry season runs from about November to April, with calm seas, clear skies and the best conditions for island trips. From May to October the southwest monsoon brings rain, rougher water and occasional cancelled boat trips, though mornings are often fine and prices are lower. Early in the dry season the sea is at its calmest and the lagoons are at their clearest.

Getting here is straightforward. Krabi International Airport has flights from Bangkok and several other Thai and regional cities, and the airport is about forty minutes from Ao Nang by road. Phuket is a few hours away by road, so the province pairs easily with a stay there. Ferries run from Krabi to Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta.

Many of the island trips in the region are sold as large shared tours at low prices. If your priority is a quiet day on the water, a private boat is worth the higher cost, since it lets you set the pace, the starting time and the stops. Plan the day around the national park fees, which are usually paid in cash on arrival at the islands, and carry small notes for them.

Food in Krabi follows the southern Thai table. Seafood is fresh and cheap near the piers, curries are rich with coconut milk and chilli, and the night markets in Krabi Town and Ao Nang serve grilled fish, noodles, roti with banana and sweet drinks. Southern Thai dishes can be very spicy, so ask for less chilli if you are not used to it. Many beach restaurants set tables on the sand in the evening, and the sunsets over the limestone ridges are a good reason to stay out late.

Respect the setting. The islands and lagoons are part of protected areas, and the national park fees pay for rangers and upkeep. Do not feed fish or monkeys, do not take shells or coral, and use reef-safe sunscreen, since ordinary lotion harms the reef. Dress modestly away from the beach, especially at temples, and remember that Thailand is a country where the monarchy is treated with great respect.

Where to stay depends on your priorities. Ao Nang suits first-time visitors, with the widest choice of hotels, restaurants and tour desks within walking distance, though its beach is better for boarding boats than for swimming. Railay offers white sand and cliffs, with the trade-off of boat access and higher prices. Klong Muang and Tubkaek, to the north, have quiet resort beaches, and the old town of Krabi has a river and a night market. Book accommodation early for December and January, the busiest weeks of the year.

Allow three to four days in Krabi to combine a boat day, a visit to Railay and one inland excursion. Stay at Ao Nang for convenience and restaurants, at Railay for beaches without traffic, or at Klong Muang, to the north, for quieter resorts and a longer drive to the main piers.