Ladakh

Ladakh is a high-altitude region in the far north of India, set between the Karakoram and the Himalaya. The landscape is a cold desert of rock, sand and snow peaks, cut by the Indus River and its tributaries, and green only where rivers or irrigation channels reach. Villages of whitewashed houses and barley fields sit in the valleys, and monasteries perch on crags above them. The region has long been part of Tibetan Buddhist culture, and this shows in its prayer flags, its stupas and its festivals.

Leh, the main town, lies at about 3,500 metres. It has a palace built in the seventeenth century by the royal family of Ladakh, a hilltop stupa for sunset views and a bazaar with Kashmiri, Tibetan and local crafts. Acclimatisation matters. Most travellers rest for the first two days, drink plenty of water and avoid strenuous activity, before going to higher places such as Khardung La, which one listing gives as 17,982 feet (about 5,480 metres), or the high passes towards Nubra and Pangong.

Monasteries are the cultural heart of Ladakh. Alchi, west of Leh, is known for wall paintings that are about a thousand years old and stand on level ground by the Indus, unlike most monasteries, which crown hilltops. Likir, nearby, has a large Maitreya statue above the complex. Thiksey and Hemis, closer to Leh, hold large festivals with masked dances, and Diskit, in the Nubra Valley, is the oldest monastery in that valley. Visitors are expected to dress modestly, remove hats, walk clockwise around shrines and ask before taking photographs inside.

North of Leh, across the Khardung La pass, lies the Nubra Valley, where sand dunes at Hunder are home to double-humped Bactrian camels, and the valley has hot springs at Panamik. Further east, Pangong Lake changes colour from blue to green to grey across a long day. These places are reached by long mountain drives, and a vehicle with an experienced local driver is the sensible way to go.

The practical side needs care. Most of the roads into Ladakh, from Manali and from Srinagar, are closed by snow from about November to May or June, so the main travel season runs from late May or June to September. Flights from Delhi to Leh operate throughout the year. Foreigners need an Inner Line Permit for areas such as Nubra and Pangong, which is arranged in Leh and is normally handled by the tour operator.

Nights are cold even in summer, and the sun is strong at altitude, so pack warm layers, sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses. Altitude sickness can affect anyone, including fit travellers, and the symptoms include headache, nausea and breathlessness. If you have a heart or lung condition, discuss the trip with a doctor before you go, and many listings in the region state that they are unsuitable for people with such conditions.

Food in Ladakh draws on Tibetan and Himalayan cooking. Thukpa, a noodle soup, and momos, steamed dumplings, are found everywhere, and butter tea, made with salt and yak butter, is offered in many homes and monasteries. Barley is the staple grain, and it appears as tsampa, roasted barley flour mixed with tea. Many cafés in Leh serve Indian, Tibetan and Western dishes, and homestays in the villages offer meals cooked with local vegetables. Drink bottled or filtered water, and eat lightly while you acclimatise.

The people and the festivals are part of the visit. Ladakhis are mostly Buddhist in the east and centre and Muslim in the Kargil region, and the two communities coexist in the towns. Festivals such as Hemis, Thiksey and the Ladakh Festival in September bring masked dances, music and archery. Visitors should be respectful, ask before photographing people and dress modestly. Responsible travel matters here, because water and waste are scarce in the high desert, so use refillable bottles and ask your hotel about its water policy.

Choose your lodging with the altitude in mind. Hotels and guesthouses in Leh range from simple rooms to comfortable lodges, and many have heating, hot water and oxygen on request. Homestays in villages such as Stok and Sham offer a more local experience. Rooms can be cold in the shoulder months, so check the heating arrangements, and book early for July and August, when flights and lodging fill. Do not plan strenuous activities for the first two days, and keep a flexible schedule.

Drink plenty of water, wear sunscreen and sunglasses even on cloudy days, and keep a warm layer within reach at all times. Pharmacies in Leh sell basic altitude medication, but ask a doctor before you travel about what is suitable for you. Avoid alcohol for the first days, and tell your guide or hotel at once if you feel unwell.

Allow at least five days to acclimatise and see the area around Leh, and a week or more if you want to include Nubra and Pangong. Day trips from Leh to the monasteries of the Indus Valley are a gentle way to begin, since they stay at lower altitude than the mountain passes.