Seoraksan

Seoraksan is a national park on the east coast of South Korea, in Gangwon province, and it contains some of the country's most dramatic mountain scenery. Jagged granite peaks rise above forested valleys, waterfalls drop into emerald pools, and temples sit in the folds of the mountains. The park is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and it is one of the most popular destinations for hiking, autumn colours and winter snow. The nearby port town of Sokcho adds fresh seafood, a lively market and sea views to the trip.

The peaks are the main attraction. Ulsanbawi, a great rock massif with six peaks, is reached by a steep stairway that ends with a long view of the valley, the sea and the sunrise. Biryong Falls, a waterfall in a gorge reached by a short trail, drops into a clear pool, and the suspension bridges across the valleys give views of the rock walls. A cable car rises to the Gwongeumseong fortress, giving a view of the peaks for those who do not hike. At the entrance of the park, the temple of Sinheungsa has a large bronze Buddha statue.

Sokcho is a working fishing town on the coast. The Jungang Market has stalls of fried chicken, squid sausage, fish cakes and dumplings, and the live seafood restaurants near the port serve raw fish and crab. The Abai village is known for its hand-pulled ferry across a narrow channel and for its Hamgyeong-style food. Daepo Port is lined with sashimi restaurants, and the beaches near Sokcho are popular in summer. Naksansa, a temple on a cliff overlooking the sea, lies a short drive south and has a statue of the sea goddess Guanyin.

The east coast is also close to the border. At Goseong, near the northern end of the Gangwon coast, the Unification Observatory looks across the Demilitarized Zone to North Korea, and a nearby museum explains the history of the division of the peninsula. Visits to the DMZ are organised through tours and require a passport and clothing that follows the rules. For many travellers the combination of mountain, market and border gives a deeper picture of the country than the capital alone.

The seasons dictate the visit. Autumn is the busiest, with the foliage at its best in the second half of October, when trails and the cable car are crowded. Winter brings snow and clear air, spring brings blossom and waterfalls swollen by melting snow, and summer is lush but humid, with heavy rain in July. Trails can be closed in bad weather or for fire prevention, so check the status before you go.

Getting here takes time. Buses from Seoul reach Sokcho in about two and a half hours, and the park entrance is a short bus ride from the town. Many visitors come as a day trip from Seoul, though the schedule is tight, and an overnight stay gives time to walk the trails properly and to eat well. A private car or taxi helps to link the park, the market and the DMZ in one day.

Pack for the mountains. Wear sturdy shoes, bring layers, water and snacks, and carry a rain jacket. Some trails are steep and involve long staircases, so pace yourself. Respect the park rules, take your rubbish with you and keep to the marked paths.

Think about the park's character beyond the main trails. Seoraksan is divided into an outer area on the east side and an inner area on the west, and each has different trails. The outer area has the most popular routes, such as Ulsanbawi and Biryong Falls, while the inner area has remote valleys and temples that require longer walks. In autumn, the park is so crowded that parking and shuttle buses fill early, and weekday visits are far more comfortable. Booking a private car or a tour that starts early gives you a head start.

Local culture adds colour. Sokcho has a community of refugees from North Korea who came during the Korean War, and their cooking, such as the sausages and the cold noodle dishes of Hamgyong province, has become part of the town's identity. The Abai village is the best place to learn this story, and a hand-pulled ferry still crosses the channel. The Jungang Market and the harbour restaurants are lively in the evening. Combine your visit with a walk on the beach, a stop at a lighthouse and a view of the sunrise over the sea if you can stay overnight.

Pack sensibly for the weather. The coast is often windy and cooler than Seoul, and the mountains can be cold and wet even when the sea is calm, so layers and a waterproof jacket are valuable. Bring water, snacks and cash for market stalls, since small vendors may not take cards. If you are planning to hike, start early, check the trail closures for the day and tell someone where you are going.

Allow one day for the park and the market, or two if you want to include the DMZ. Stay in Sokcho for the seafood and the evening atmosphere, or in a hotel near the park entrance for early starts and access to the trails.