Shanghai

Shanghai is China's largest city and its main financial centre, and it is built on contrasts. On the western bank of the Huangpu River, the Bund is lined with early twentieth-century banks and trading houses in neoclassical and art deco styles. Across the water, in Pudong, a cluster of skyscrapers, including the Shanghai Tower, the Oriental Pearl Tower and the Jinmao Tower, rises from land that was farmland a few decades ago. Standing between them at night, with both banks lit, is the quickest way to understand the city.

The older city is still present in pockets. Yu Garden, in the old town, is a sixteenth-century garden with rockeries, ponds and pavilions, set among bazaar streets and a famous teahouse. The former French Concession is a district of plane-tree avenues, lane houses and cafés, where it is pleasant to wander. The Jade Buddha Temple, a working monastery, holds two jade Buddha statues brought from Burma. Zhujiajiao, a canal town on the western edge, shows what the region looked like before the skyscrapers.

Shanghai is also the starting point for some of the best day trips in eastern China. Suzhou, about half an hour away by fast train, is known for its classical gardens, which are listed by UNESCO, and for its canals and white-walled houses. Hangzhou, with its West Lake, is an hour or so away. Both are straightforward by high-speed rail, which is how most local people travel, though ticketing and station procedures are easier with a guide or a driver, particularly on a first visit.

Food is a pleasure in its own right. Xiaolongbao, the steamed soup dumplings, are the local speciality, and the city is also known for red-braised pork, hairy crab in autumn and sheng jian bao, the pan-fried buns. The restaurant scene ranges from street stalls to some of the most ambitious dining rooms in Asia, and breakfast stalls in the lanes remain a good place to eat cheaply and well.

Practicalities are simple. The metro is clean, extensive and cheap, and taxis are plentiful, but many apps and services need a Chinese phone number or payment method, so plan how to pay before you arrive. Mobile payments dominate, though many places now accept foreign cards. Wi-Fi and VPN restrictions affect some foreign websites and apps, so download maps and translation tools before you go. Check visa and transit rules for your nationality, as arrangements change frequently.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with mild temperatures and clearer skies. Summers are hot, humid and prone to heavy rain and typhoon edges, and winters are cold and damp, with little central heating in older buildings. The Chinese holidays, especially the Golden Week at the start of October, make popular sights extremely crowded.

Shanghai is a city to explore on foot in pieces. The Bund promenade is best at dusk, when the lights come on across the river, and the lanes of the former French Concession, such as those around Wukang Road, reward slow walking with architecture, shops and coffee. The Tianzifang and Xintiandi quarters mix old lane houses with galleries, bars and restaurants. The Shanghai Museum, on People's Square, holds one of the best collections of ancient Chinese bronzes, ceramics and calligraphy in the country, and it is a good rainy-day option.

For a broader view of the region, think of Shanghai as the centre of the Yangtze River delta. Water towns such as Zhujiajiao and Tongli, the lakeside city of Hangzhou, the garden city of Suzhou and Nanjing are all within a few hours by train. The high-speed network is fast and punctual, but trains fill up at holidays, so book ahead and carry your passport. A guide or driver is the easiest way to make a day trip without confusion at the stations.

Pick a base that matches your plans. The area around the Bund and People's Square is convenient for first-time visitors, with many hotels and metro lines close by. The former French Concession is calmer and greener, with boutique hotels in historic buildings, while Pudong has high-rise hotels with views of the river. Check the metro map before you book, because the city is large and a short distance on the map can mean a long ride, particularly at rush hour.

Pack light layers and comfortable shoes, since a typical day involves a great deal of walking on pavements, bridges and stairs. An umbrella is useful in every season, and a power bank helps when your phone is your map, translator and wallet. Keep your passport with you for tickets, and photograph its main page in case you need a copy.

Two or three days cover the Bund, the old town and the French Concession. Add a full day for Suzhou or Zhujiajiao. A private guide helps you use time efficiently, avoid queues and understand what you are looking at, particularly in the older districts where labels are in Chinese only.