Almaty

Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan and was its capital until 1997. It lies in the foothills of the Trans-Ili Alatau, a range of the Tien Shan whose snow-capped peaks rise directly behind the city, and it combines wide Soviet-era avenues with leafy parks, cafés and a lively food scene. The name is often linked to the apple, and the wild apple forests of the region are considered the ancestors of the cultivated fruit. For travellers the city is a base for the lakes, canyons and mountains that make south-eastern Kazakhstan one of the most scenic parts of Central Asia.

The city itself deserves a day. Zenkov Cathedral, a colourful wooden Orthodox church in Panfilov Park, was built in the early twentieth century without nails and survived the earthquakes that destroyed many nearby buildings. The Green Bazaar sells fruit, dried apricots, spices, meat and dairy products, and the Kok-Tobe hill, reached by cable car, gives a view across the city to the mountains. The Central State Museum holds the Golden Man, a gold-clad warrior from the Saka culture, and good restaurants serve Kazakh and Central Asian dishes.

The mountains are close. Medeu, a high-altitude skating rink in a valley above the city, is reached by road, and a cable car continues to Shymbulak, a ski resort that is open in winter and offers views and walks in summer. Big Almaty Lake, a turquoise reservoir in a mountain bowl at around 2,500 metres, is a popular day trip, though the road is steep and access to some areas is controlled because the lake supplies water. The air is cooler and thinner at altitude, so bring layers even in summer.

Further afield, Charyn Canyon lies about 200 kilometres east, a drive of around three hours. The canyon is a long gorge cut through red sandstone, and its best-known section, the Valley of Castles, has towers and walls shaped by wind and water. A path leads down to the river, and the colours of the rock change with the light. Nearby Black Canyon and Moon Canyon offer other landscapes of eroded cliffs.

The lakes of Kolsay and Kaindy lie in the mountains south of Charyn, near the village of Saty. Kaindy was formed by a landslide caused by an earthquake in the early twentieth century, which dammed a gorge and drowned a spruce forest, leaving the trunks standing in the clear, cold water. The Kolsay Lakes, a chain of three alpine lakes, are surrounded by spruce forest and meadow. The final stretch of the road to Kaindy is rough, and visitors normally transfer to a four-wheel-drive vehicle. These excursions are long, and many travellers choose an overnight stay in a guesthouse at Saty to avoid a very early start.

Food is a pleasure. Beshbarmak, boiled meat served with flat noodles and broth, is the national dish, and kazy, a horse sausage, and baursak, fried dough, appear at feasts. Kumys, fermented mare's milk, and shubat, fermented camel's milk, are traditional drinks that visitors are invited to try. Tea is served throughout the day, and many cafés also offer coffee and pastries.

The best seasons are late spring and early autumn. From May to October the roads to the lakes are clear, and September brings gold on the mountain slopes. Summers can be hot in the city, while winter is cold and snowy, which suits skiers. Check visa requirements before you travel, since entry rules for many nationalities have changed in recent years.

A few practical points help. Russian is widely spoken in the city, Kazakh is the state language and English is limited outside hotels and tourist businesses, so a translation app is useful. Taxis are cheap and best booked through apps, cards are accepted in most restaurants and shops, and cash in tenge is handy for markets and rural guesthouses. Mobile data is inexpensive with a local SIM card. In the mountains, altitude can cause headaches and tiredness, so drink water and pace yourself, especially if you plan to hike around the lakes.

Where to stay depends on your plans. The centre near Panfilov Park and Republic Square puts you within walking distance of cafés and museums, while the district near Dostyk Avenue is busy with shops and restaurants. Those heading to the mountains may prefer a hotel on the southern side of the city, which shortens the morning drive. For the lakes and the canyon, a night in a guesthouse in Saty is a better choice than racing back to the city in the dark.

A private driver and guide is practical in this region. Distances are long, public transport to the lakes is limited, and the best viewpoints are reached on rough roads. A guide can explain the history and geology, help with permits where they are needed and handle the four-wheel-drive transfers. Plan at least three days: one for the city, one for Charyn and one for the lakes, or two days with an overnight stay near the canyons.