Andaman Islands

The Andaman Islands sit in the Bay of Bengal, geographically closer to Thailand and Myanmar than to mainland India, and the water reflects that Southeast Asian character more than a subcontinental one. Havelock Island's Radhanagar Beach was named Asia's best beach by Time magazine in 2004 and still features on international lists, a wide stretch of white sand backed by dense forest, with a shallow, warm turquoise shelf that stays swimmable well past the shoreline.

Beyond Radhanagar, the archipelago offers some of India's best diving, reef systems around Havelock and Neil Island that remain considerably less dived than Southeast Asia's more established sites, plus the sobering, worthwhile Cellular Jail in Port Blair, a colonial-era prison turned museum documenting India's independence movement. The Andamans require a flight connection through Port Blair rather than a land crossing, which has kept visitor numbers meaningfully lower than the islands' beach quality would otherwise suggest.

Several islands and towns have been renamed in recent years, which can cause confusion when booking. Havelock is now officially Swaraj Dweep, Neil Island is Shaheed Dweep, and Port Blair has been renamed Sri Vijaya Puram, though the older names are still widely used.

Flights connect Port Blair with Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi and other Indian cities. From Port Blair, government and private ferries run to Havelock and Neil, taking around one and a half to two and a half hours. Ferries can be cancelled in rough weather, so allow a buffer day at the end of your trip before the flight home.

Havelock is the main base, with the widest range of accommodation and dive centres. Elephant Beach, reached by boat or a forest walk, has shallow coral that is ideal for snorkelling. Neil Island is smaller and slower, with natural rock formations, quiet beaches and good snorkelling at low tide. Around Port Blair, Ross Island, the former British administrative headquarters, has ruins overtaken by trees, and the Cellular Jail hosts an evening sound and light show about its history.

The islands are home to indigenous communities, some of whom have little or no contact with the outside world. Their reserves are strictly off limits, and North Sentinel Island is closed to all visitors by law. Permit requirements for foreign visitors have been relaxed for many islands, but rules change, so check current requirements before booking.

The best season runs from November to April, when the sea is calm and visibility is good for diving. The monsoon, from May to September, brings heavy rain and rough seas, and many dive centres close. Mobile and internet coverage is limited, and cash is essential on the smaller islands, where ATMs are few and sometimes empty.

Allow a week to see Port Blair, Havelock and Neil without rushing, and longer if you plan to dive or explore the more remote islands.

A seven-day itinerary could start with a night in Port Blair, visiting the Cellular Jail and the evening show. Take the morning ferry to Havelock and spend three nights there, with a day at Radhanagar Beach, a snorkelling trip to Elephant Beach and time for diving or a sea kayak trip through the mangroves. Continue to Neil Island for two nights of quiet beaches and snorkelling at low tide, then return to Port Blair for your flight, ideally with a spare day in case of ferry delays.

Accommodation ranges from simple beach huts to comfortable resorts, particularly on Havelock. Booking ahead is wise during the Indian holiday periods around Christmas, New Year and the spring school holidays, when domestic visitors fill the islands.

The Andamans are a good place to learn to dive. Several dive centres on Havelock and Neil offer courses, and the calm, warm water and shallow reefs suit beginners. More experienced divers can explore deeper walls and pinnacles further offshore. Choose a centre with good safety standards and well-maintained equipment.

Food is simple but good, with fresh fish and seafood cooked with South Indian and Bengali influences. Many smaller places serve vegetarian thalis at lunch.