Lombok

Lombok is Bali's immediate neighbour across the Lombok Strait, and its temperamental opposite: quieter, predominantly Sasak Muslim rather than Hindu Balinese, with a single volcanic peak dominating the island from every direction. Mount Rinjani, at 3,726 metres, is Indonesia's second-highest active volcano, its crater lake sitting at 2,000 metres beneath a summit that needs two nights on the mountain to reach safely.

Off Lombok's northwest coast, the Gili Islands are three coral-fringed sandbanks: Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan. No motorised vehicles cross any of the three; transport runs by horse cart or bicycle instead. Gili Air balances infrastructure and quiet best of the three, while Gili Meno runs a turtle sanctuary out of a beachside enclosure, raising juveniles before release. The snorkelling off Gili Air's own beaches is easy and rewarding, turtles a common sight.

The south coast, particularly Mawun and Selong Belanak, offers wide, quiet bays of the kind that have largely disappeared from Bali's south coast. Sasak villages in central Lombok still preserve a traditional architecture of thatched longhouses on hardened cattle-dung floors, disappearing fast across the rest of the island, and the weaving tradition of Sukarara village still uses hand-operated backstrap looms with natural dyes in patterns specific to each family.

Lombok is still rebuilding from the earthquakes that struck its north in 2018, though tourism has largely recovered by now; a few trails and villages remain affected. The island is larger and less developed than Bali, with fewer roads and more distance between sights, so a driver makes the most practical way around.

The Rinjani trek ranks among the great volcano hikes of Southeast Asia. The standard route starts from Sembalun or Senaru, climbing through forest and grassland to the crater rim, with views over the turquoise crater lake and the smaller volcano rising from its waters. A summit attempt begins in the middle of the night for sunrise, on steep, loose volcanic scree, and demands a good level of fitness, a licensed guide and porters throughout. The national park closes during the rainy season, usually January to March.

Each Gili has its own character. Trawangan is the largest and liveliest, bars and dive centres and real nightlife. Meno stays the quietest, popular with couples and those after calm. Air, closest to Lombok, sits between the two in both size and atmosphere. Fast boats connect the Gilis with Bali in around two hours, and public boats run from Bangsal harbour on Lombok in about twenty minutes.

Surfing defines the south coast, with breaks for every level around Kuta Lombok, Gerupuk and Selong Belanak. Kuta itself has grown fast, with cafés and small hotels, though it stays far quieter than its namesake in Bali. The Mandalika area nearby now hosts a new resort zone and a racing circuit.

Sasak culture shapes life across the island. The village of Sade preserves traditional houses, and visitors can watch weaving demonstrations and learn about local customs. People sometimes call Lombok the island of a thousand mosques, and dressing modestly away from the beaches, especially in villages and during Ramadan, is a mark of respect worth keeping.

May to September, the dry season, works best for the island, particularly for trekking and diving. The wet season brings heavy rain and closes Rinjani, though the island turns lush and quiet in return.

Lombok International Airport, in the south, has flights from Bali, Jakarta and some regional hubs. Five days lets you combine the Gilis with the south coast; a Rinjani trek adds several more.