Hakone

Hakone is a mountain resort in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, about ninety minutes from central Tokyo by express train. It has been a place to rest and bathe since the Edo period, when travellers on the Tokaido road between Edo and Kyoto stopped here, and today it combines hot springs, volcanic scenery and art museums in a compact area. Many visitors come for a day, though the region is better with a night in a ryokan, the traditional inn with tatami floors, kaiseki dinners and an onsen bath.

The landscape is shaped by a volcano. Owakudani, the valley of steaming vents and yellow sulphur-stained slopes, lies on the flank of Mount Kamiyama and is the place to eat kuro-tamago, eggs boiled in the hot spring water until the shells turn black. Local tradition holds that each egg adds years to your life, which is a charming reason to buy a bag of five. Access to the valley depends on volcanic gas levels, and the ropeway or the surrounding paths are sometimes closed at short notice, so check the current status before you plan around it.

Lake Ashi, or Ashinoko, fills the caldera to the south of the volcano. Sightseeing boats built as pirate ships cross it, and on clear days the cone of Mount Fuji appears above the far shore. At Hakone Shrine, on the lake's edge, a red torii gate stands in the water and is one of the most photographed views in the region. A long avenue of old cedar trees, part of the original Tokaido road, runs along the shore nearby. The Hakone Open-Air Museum, which displays sculpture among the hills, and several art museums, including the Pola Museum of Art, add a cultural strand to the outdoors.

Transport is part of the experience. A small mountain railway, a cable car, a ropeway and the lake boats form a loop that many visitors travel with a pass, and the connections are well organised but slow in busy periods. Public transport suits independent visitors, though a private driver or a guide who knows the timetables saves time, particularly if you want to reach Owakudani, the lake and a museum in one day. Roads in the mountains are narrow and winding, and traffic builds up at weekends and in the autumn.

The seasons vary. Spring brings cherry blossom at lower elevations, summer is humid and often cloudy, with the best views of Mount Fuji hidden by haze, and autumn colours the hills from late October to November. Winter is the clearest season, with crisp air and snow-capped views of Fuji, although the nights are cold. Whatever the month, mist can close in quickly, so be prepared for a day without views.

Onsen etiquette is worth learning. Wash thoroughly before entering the bath, do not wear a swimsuit, tie up long hair and keep the small towel out of the water. Some baths do not admit guests with tattoos, though many ryokan offer private baths that solve the problem. Dinner is served at a fixed time, so tell the inn if you will arrive late.

Hakone suits travellers who want a contrast to Tokyo's pace. One night is enough for a taste, two nights allow for a slower rhythm, with a morning at a museum or a walk along the old road. Travellers with only a day can take a guided tour that combines the main sights and handles the transfers.

When you plan the day, start early. Weekends and holidays are crowded, queues form at the ropeway and the boats, and the best views of Fuji are in the morning. Carry yen for local transport and small purchases, since some stalls and bus lines do not accept cards, and bring a light jacket, since the temperature in the mountains is lower than in Tokyo.

The standard loop is worth knowing. From Hakone-Yumoto, the gateway town, a small mountain railway climbs to Gora. A cable car then rises to Sounzan, and a ropeway crosses the volcanic valley of Owakudani to Togendai on the shore of Lake Ashi. Boats cross the lake to Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi, where buses return to Hakone-Yumoto. The loop takes most of a day if you stop, and each section has its own queue, which is why many visitors choose a guide or a driver. From Tokyo, the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku reaches the gateway in around eighty-five minutes.

Where you stay changes the experience. Hakone-Yumoto is convenient and has plenty of shops, Gora and Sengokuhara are quieter and close to museums, and the lakeside around Moto-Hakone has views of the water and the torii gate. Ryokan prices are high at weekends and in autumn, so book early, and ask whether the room has a private bath if you prefer one. A night here, with dinner and breakfast included, is the best way to experience the tradition.

A guide can also shape the day around your interests. Art lovers might concentrate on the museums, walkers on the old road and the lake shore, and photographers on the viewpoints and the torii gate at the right hour. A private tour lets you change the plan on the day if the weather or the closures require it, which is a real advantage in a region where volcanic gas and cloud can change the programme at short notice.