Jeju

Jeju is a volcanic island off the southern tip of South Korea, and it feels distinct from the mainland in its landscape, its food and even its dialect. At its centre stands Hallasan, the highest mountain in South Korea at 1,947 metres. Around it lie more than three hundred small volcanic cones called oreum, and the coast is edged with black basalt rock, waterfalls that drop directly into the sea and sandy beaches with turquoise shallows.

UNESCO has recognised the island's volcanic landscape as a World Natural Heritage Site. The listing covers Hallasan, the tuff cone of Seongsan Ilchulbong on the east coast and the Geomunoreum lava tube system, which includes Manjanggul, one of the longest lava tubes in the world open to visitors. Walking inside a lava tube is cool, quiet and strange, and it is one of the few places where the volcanic origin of the island is visible underfoot.

Seongsan Ilchulbong, usually called Sunrise Peak, is a crater that rose from the sea in an eruption and is now joined to the island. A staircase leads to the rim in around half an hour, and the view over the crater and the coast makes it the most popular sunrise spot on the island. The haenyeo, the women divers of Jeju, are another symbol of the east coast. They harvest seafood by free diving, without breathing apparatus, and UNESCO has listed their tradition as intangible cultural heritage. Demonstrations and museums explain the craft, and a few still work in the water.

Food on Jeju draws on the sea and the volcanic soil. Black pork is the local speciality, grilled at the table, and abalone porridge, grilled mackerel and raw fish stews are common near the ports. The island is famous for its tangerines and the products made from them, and green tea grows on the western slopes. Cafés occupy old farm buildings and beachfront houses, and the coast road has many of them.

Getting around is the main practical question. Public buses cover the main routes, but the best sights are scattered and bus connections can be slow, so most visitors hire a car or a driver. Foreign visitors need an international driving permit, and signs are in Korean and English, though navigation apps work better with Korean names. A private driver-guide removes the need to drive and adds local commentary, which suits visitors who have only a day or two.

The seasons give the island its character. Spring brings yellow rapeseed flowers and cherry blossom, summer is hot and humid with a rainy spell in July, autumn has clear skies and silver grass on the hills, and winter is mild by Korean standards, with snow on Hallasan. Typhoons can disrupt flights in late summer and early autumn, so build a day of margin into your plans.

A few cultural notes help. The island has its own folk traditions, and visitors see stone figures called dol hareubang at village entrances and in front of shops, said to protect against evil spirits. Jeju is also known as the island of three abundances, namely stone, wind and women, a phrase that refers to the black basalt walls, the strong wind and the independent women of the island. Many farms and cafés grow tangerines, and the fruit appears in juices, chocolates and ice cream.

For hikers, Hallasan has several trails to the summit, and the longest takes most of the day. Permits and bookings may be required for some trails, so check the national park rules before you go, and avoid the mountain in bad weather or after heavy snow. The Jeju Olle trail network, a series of coastal and inland walking routes marked with blue and orange ribbons, is a gentler alternative, and its stretches can be walked in a morning.

Plan the logistics with care. Rental cars are easy to book at the airport, but foreign drivers need an international permit, and parking at popular sights fills up in peak season. Taxis can be hired by the day with a driver, and a private guide-driver is often the simplest answer for a short visit, since the stops lie far apart. Accommodation ranges from city hotels in Jeju City to resorts at Seogwipo and Jungmun and guesthouses near the east coast, and the island is busy at weekends and during Korean holidays.

Pack for changeable weather. Even on a clear morning the wind on the coast can be strong, and clouds often gather around Hallasan by midday, so carry a light waterproof jacket, a hat and comfortable shoes with a good grip for volcanic rock. Sunscreen is useful all year, and in summer an umbrella helps with both sun and rain.

Flights from Seoul take about an hour, which makes Jeju one of the busiest domestic routes in the world, and there are also flights from other Korean and Asian cities. Allow two to four days to see the east, the south and the west coast, add a morning for a walk on Hallasan or an Olle trail, and book a driver for at least one full day.