Takayama

Takayama is a town in the Hida region of Gifu prefecture, set in a valley among the mountains of the Japanese Alps. Its old quarter has survived with an unusual degree of preservation, and the streets of dark wooden merchant houses, sake breweries and craft shops give a sense of Japan before the modern cities. The town prospered from the forests of Hida, whose timber and skilled carpenters were once sent to the shogun's capital, and the craft tradition continues in woodwork, lacquer and furniture.

The heart of the town is the Sanmachi Suji district, three parallel streets of merchant houses with latticed fronts and eaves. Many have been turned into museums, shops and small restaurants. Sake breweries announce themselves with a ball of cedar leaves hanging from the eaves, and most offer tastings for a modest fee. The Takayama Jinya, the former government office of the region, is the only surviving building of its type in Japan and is open to visitors. Morning markets by the river and in front of the Jinya sell vegetables, pickles and crafts, and are best before ten.

The town is known for its festivals. The spring festival in mid-April and the autumn festival in early October feature ornate floats, some of them hundreds of years old, which are pulled through the streets and, in the evening, lit with lanterns. Between festivals, a museum of the floats explains how they are built. The Hida no Sato open-air museum, in the hills above the town, moves farmhouses from the region to a village setting and shows how people lived in the heavy-snow country.

The most visited excursion is to Shirakawa-go, about an hour away by bus or car. The village of Ogimachi and its neighbours are listed by UNESCO for their gassho-zukuri houses, farmhouses with steep thatched roofs shaped like hands pressed together in prayer, designed to shed heavy snowfall. Some houses are open to visitors, and a lookout above the village gives the classic view. Nearby Gokayama has smaller and quieter villages of the same kind. In winter the villages are covered in snow, and on selected evenings they are lit up, though access is by reservation and is very busy.

The food is a pleasure. Hida beef, grilled at the table or served as skewers in the market, is the local luxury, and the region is known for mountain vegetables, river fish and miso-based dishes. Takayama ramen, with a clear soy-based broth, is a popular lunch. Sake and craft beer are made in the town, and hot spring inns in the surrounding hills round out the picture.

Getting here is straightforward. Express trains run from Nagoya in about two and a half hours and from Toyama in about an hour and a half, and buses connect to Kanazawa, Matsumoto and Shirakawa-go. A private car is the simplest way to see Shirakawa-go and Takayama in a single day from Kanazawa, since the bus schedules are limited and the two sights lie in different directions.

Choose your season. Spring and autumn offer festivals and colour, summer is warm and green, and winter brings deep snow and a spectacular atmosphere, but roads can be affected by weather. Check road conditions in winter and be prepared for delays.

Plan at least one night in Takayama to appreciate the old town in the early morning and evening, when the day-trippers are gone. Two nights allow time for Shirakawa-go, the open-air museum and a stroll in the surrounding countryside. Wear comfortable shoes, since the streets are cobbled in places and the villages involve walking on uneven ground.

Takayama also works as a base for the mountains. Kamikochi, a protected alpine valley with a clear river and walking paths, lies about an hour away by road and is usually open from mid-April to mid-November. The Okuhida hot spring villages, set in the high country, are known for their open-air baths with views of the peaks. The old town itself can be covered on foot in two hours, though a night allows more time for its evening atmosphere, and rental bicycles are available for the outskirts.

The table is part of the appeal. A local meal may include hoba miso, a mixture of miso and mushrooms grilled on a magnolia leaf, and mountain vegetables pickled for the winter. In winter, hot pots and grilled river fish appear, and in summer, cold soba noodles. Cafés in the old quarter serve coffee and sweets in converted storehouses, a good way to rest when the weather turns cold.

Etiquette matters in Shirakawa-go. The houses are homes as well as attractions, so do not enter private property, keep to the paths, and avoid walking on the rice fields. Drones are restricted, and photography of residents requires permission. Visitors who treat the village with respect help to keep it open and thriving.