Bagan

More than 2,000 Buddhist temples and pagodas rise from the dry plains of central Myanmar. The scale is unlike anything else in Asia, you can walk for an hour between shrines and still be surrounded by spires.

The best way to see Bagan is from the sky at dawn, in a hot air balloon, watching the plains turn gold and the mist lift from the Irrawaddy River. The second best is by e-bike at dusk, when you can stop at whichever temple catches the light best.

Bagan rewards patience and directional sense. Our local team knows which lesser-known temples have the best views, and which monasteries welcome quiet visitors for morning prayers.

Before planning a visit, check your government's current travel advice for Myanmar. The political situation has changed significantly since 2021, many governments advise against all or non-essential travel, and some travel insurance policies do not cover trips made against that advice. Conditions can change quickly, so check again shortly before you travel.

Most of the temples were built between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries, when Bagan was the capital of the first kingdom to unify the region. Bagan was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. A few monuments stand out even among thousands: the Ananda temple, with its gilded spire and four standing Buddhas; the Shwezigon pagoda, a model for many later stupas across the country; the massive Dhammayangyi, with its mysterious bricked-up corridors; and Sulamani, known for its surviving murals. Climbing the temples is now restricted to protect them, and earthquakes have damaged many monuments over the years, so several are closed or under restoration.

The plain is best explored slowly. Electric bikes are the most popular way around, following sandy tracks between the temples. Horse carts give a gentler pace, and a car with a driver suits hot afternoons. Sunrise and sunset are the busiest times; the hours in between, when the light is flat and most visitors rest, are when the smaller temples are quietest. Balloon flights over the plain run in the dry season when operators are working, and are best booked well in advance.

The villages around the temples are part of the experience. Myinkaba is known for lacquerware workshops, where craftspeople build up layers of lacquer over bamboo frames. Mount Popa, an extinct volcano about an hour away, has a monastery on a rocky outcrop and is associated with the nat spirits of Burmese folk belief. The Irrawaddy River runs along the edge of the plain, and a sunset boat ride offers a different view of the temples.

The best time to visit is from November to February, when the weather is dry and relatively cool. March to May is extremely hot, and the rainy season from June to October brings green landscapes and fewer visitors. Nyaung-U airport has domestic flights, and boats along the Irrawaddy from Mandalay have traditionally been a scenic way to arrive.

Dress respectfully in temples, with shoulders and knees covered, and remove shoes and socks before entering. Carry cash, as card acceptance is limited, and download maps before arrival in case of internet restrictions.

If conditions allow a visit, a three-day plan works well. On the first day, arrive and spend the late afternoon at a temple with a view to the west, watching the plain turn gold as the sun goes down. Give the second day to the major temples, starting early at Ananda and Shwezigon, resting through the midday heat, and returning to the smaller temples around Minnanthu in the late afternoon, where murals survive in quiet interior chambers. On the third day, take a sunrise from the plain or the air, visit the lacquer workshops of Myinkaba, and end with a boat ride on the Irrawaddy.

Accommodation is concentrated in three areas. Old Bagan, inside the archaeological zone, has a small number of hotels close to the main temples. New Bagan, to the south, has more mid-range options. Nyaung-U, in the north, is the main town, with the market, the airport and the widest choice of restaurants. Wherever you stay, a pool is a welcome retreat in the hottest part of the day.

A good local guide transforms the experience, explaining the Buddhist stories painted on temple walls, the history of the kingdom and the belief in nat spirits that still shapes daily life in the region. Guides can also help you find temples where caretakers will unlock doors to show hidden murals.