Rajasthan

Rajasthan is the India of popular imagination made real: sandstone forts, painted havelis, turbaned camel herders, and the blush-pink city of Jaipur at golden hour. But the state's depth is in its living aristocratic culture, a tradition of hospitality and ceremony that survived Mughal rule and British administration alike.

Our access in Rajasthan includes private palace dinners in residences not open to the public, meeting the families who built the forts and still maintain them, and touring the craft villages of the blue city of Jodhpur with makers who rarely receive visitors.

The best time to visit is October to February, when temperatures are manageable and the desert light is extraordinary. The Pushkar Camel Fair, usually held in late October or November, is one of the most spectacular events in Asia.

Rajasthan is India's largest state by area, and the distances between its cities are significant, so most visitors follow a circuit that links a handful of highlights. Jaipur, the capital, is the usual starting point. The Amber Fort, on a ridge outside the city, rises in honey-coloured walls above a lake; the City Palace, still partly home to the former royal family, holds museums of textiles and arms; the Hawa Mahal, with its latticed facade, was built so royal women could watch street life unseen; and the Jantar Mantar, a UNESCO-listed collection of astronomical instruments, is one of the most unusual monuments in India.

Udaipur, to the south, is built around lakes, with palaces and havelis reflected in the water of Lake Pichola. It is the most romantic of Rajasthan's cities and the easiest to slow down in. Jodhpur, the blue city, sits beneath the Mehrangarh Fort, one of the most imposing in India, with views over a sea of indigo houses. Jaisalmer, in the far west, is a golden sandstone fort that is still lived in, rising out of the Thar Desert, and a base for camel treks and nights under the stars. Ranthambore National Park, between Jaipur and the south, is one of the best places in India to see wild tigers, though sightings are never guaranteed and the park closes during the monsoon.

The food is rich and designed for a dry climate. Dal baati churma, baked wheat balls with lentils and a sweet crumble, is the classic dish; laal maas, a fiery mutton curry, is a Rajput speciality; and every city has its own sweets. Vegetarian cooking dominates in many areas, especially around Pushkar.

The best season runs from October to March, with cool nights in December and January. April to June is fiercely hot, often above 40 degrees. The monsoon, from July to September, brings humidity and green landscapes, especially around Udaipur, and fewer visitors.

Travel between cities is usually by car with a driver, which gives flexibility to stop at villages, stepwells and roadside temples. Trains connect the main cities, and domestic flights save time on longer legs. Allow at least ten days for a circuit that includes Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and one of the desert or wildlife areas, and dress modestly, especially in temples and rural areas.

Staying in heritage properties is one of the great pleasures of travelling here. Many forts, palaces and havelis have been converted into hotels by the families who own them, and some are still partly lived in. They range from grand palace hotels on Lake Pichola to small, family-run havelis in the backstreets of Jaisalmer or Bundi, where the owners may share stories of their ancestors over dinner. Choosing a few of these over standard hotels changes the character of a trip entirely.

Crafts are part of daily life across the state. Jaipur is known for block printing, gem cutting and blue pottery; the village of Bagru, outside the city, still produces hand-printed textiles using natural dyes. Jodhpur has antique and furniture workshops, while Udaipur is known for miniature painting. Buying directly from workshops supports the artisans and gives you the chance to see how pieces are made.

Smaller towns offer a quieter view of Rajasthan. Bundi, with its stepwells, murals and palace above a lake, has kept much of its old atmosphere. Shekhawati, in the north, is known for its painted havelis, whose walls were decorated by merchant families in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Adding one of these to the main circuit gives a more rounded picture of the state and a break from the busier cities.