Varanasi

Varanasi is often described as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with archaeological evidence of settlement going back around three thousand years. It is also the most sacred site in Hinduism: the ghats on the Ganges, where pilgrims bathe in the river to cleanse accumulated karma, are the city's central statement. To die in Varanasi, the texts say, is to receive moksha, liberation from the cycle of rebirth, from Shiva himself.

The Dashashwamedh Ghat Ganga Aarti ceremony takes place every evening at sunset: a dozen priests in coordinated silk kurtas perform a fire ritual with seven-tiered oil lamps, incense, and conch shells to a crowd of thousands on the steps and on boats in the river. The ceremony lasts around an hour, and in its current, choreographed form has been performed every evening since the 1990s. It is the most consistently moving public ritual in India and possibly the most misrepresented, photographs cannot convey its acoustic dimension.

The Manikarnika Ghat burns 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. It is the principal cremation site in Varanasi, and the smoke from the funeral pyres is visible from the river. Photography is not permitted and should not be attempted. The silk weaving tradition of Varanasi (Banarasi silk brocade, made on handlooms by Muslim weaving families who have worked the same neighbourhoods for generations) produces textiles that are worn at Indian weddings above all others and is accessible to visitors through studio visits in the Madanpura district.

The city stretches along the western bank of the Ganges, with more than eighty ghats, stone steps leading down to the water, each with its own temples, rituals and history. A boat ride at dawn, drifting past pilgrims bathing, priests performing prayers and washermen at work, is the best introduction. Walking along the ghats from Assi in the south to Manikarnika in the north takes a few hours and passes through every aspect of the city's life.

Behind the ghats lies a maze of narrow lanes, too narrow for cars, where temples, shrines, sweet shops and houses crowd together. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva, is the most important in the city; a large corridor completed in 2021 now connects it to the river. Non-Hindus may not always be allowed into the inner sanctum, and security is strict, so phones and bags must often be left outside.

Sarnath, around ten kilometres north of the city, is where the Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of monasteries and the museum, which holds the famous lion capital of Emperor Ashoka, now the national emblem of India, make it one of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the world.

The food is rich and often vegetarian. Kachori sabzi, fried bread with spiced potatoes, is a breakfast staple. Malaiyyo, a frothy milk dessert flavoured with saffron and served only in winter, is a local speciality. Banarasi paan, betel leaf filled with spices and sweeteners, is chewed after meals.

The city can be overwhelming. Touts, crowds, cows and the intensity of religious life can be a lot to absorb, and a good local guide helps immensely. Respect the rituals at the cremation ghats, dress modestly, and be careful with the river water, which is not safe to drink or swim in.

The best time to visit is from October to March, when the weather is cool and dry, with misty mornings on the river. Dev Deepawali, held fifteen days after Diwali, when the ghats are lit with thousands of oil lamps, is one of the most spectacular festivals in India. April to June is extremely hot, and the monsoon brings rising water that can cover the lower ghats.

Varanasi's airport has flights from Delhi, Mumbai and other cities, and trains connect it with most of northern India. Two to three days is the least that does the city justice.