Xi'an

In 1974, farmers digging a well outside Xi'an struck the head of a clay soldier and uncovered one of the twentieth century's great archaeological finds: the Terracotta Army, over eight thousand life-sized warriors, horses, and chariots buried to guard the tomb of China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, for more than two thousand years. Each face is reputed to be unique, no two soldiers share the same expression.

Xi'an itself was the eastern terminus of the Silk Road and the capital of more than a dozen dynasties, including the Han and the Tang, long before Beijing became the seat of emperors. The Ming-dynasty city walls remain fully intact and rideable by bicycle in a single loop, while the Muslim Quarter's night market serves some of the finest street food in China: hand-pulled biang biang noodles, lamb skewers, and persimmon cakes fried to order.

We arrange early access to Pit 1 before the tour-bus crowds arrive, and a private evening in the Muslim Quarter with a food guide who has eaten there since childhood.

The Terracotta Army lies about an hour east of the city centre, near the burial mound of the first emperor. Pit 1 is the largest, a vast hall with rows of soldiers standing in battle formation; Pit 2 holds cavalry, archers and chariots, some still partly buried; and Pit 3, the smallest, is thought to have been the command post. The museum also displays two striking bronze chariots with horses, found near the tomb. Excavation is ongoing, and you may see archaeologists at work in the pits. The emperor's tomb itself has never been opened.

Back in the city, the Ming-era walls enclose the old centre in a rectangle of around fourteen kilometres. Cycling the full circuit takes two to three hours, and the view over the rooftops is best in the late afternoon. The Bell and Drum Towers stand at the heart of the old city, and the Great Mosque, hidden in the lanes of the Muslim Quarter, blends Chinese architecture with Islamic function, with pavilions and courtyards in place of domes and minarets.

The Big Wild Goose Pagoda, built in the seventh century to house Buddhist texts brought from India by the monk Xuanzang, stands in the south of the city. The Small Wild Goose Pagoda, quieter and set in a peaceful garden, is part of the Silk Road UNESCO listing. The Shaanxi History Museum holds one of the finest collections in China, including Tang dynasty murals and gold; tickets are limited and should be booked well in advance.

The food is a highlight. Roujiamo, sometimes called a Chinese burger, is slow-cooked pork or beef in a crisp flatbread. Yangrou paomo is a lamb soup in which you break unleavened bread into small pieces before it is cooked. Biang biang noodles are wide, hand-pulled and dressed with chilli oil. The Muslim Quarter is the best place to try many of these, though some of the best places are in the quieter lanes rather than the main street.

The best time to visit is from March to May and September to November, when temperatures are mild. Summer is hot, and winter is cold and dry. Avoid the national holiday weeks in early May and October, when the Terracotta Army museum is extremely crowded.

Xi'an is around four and a half to five and a half hours from Beijing by high-speed train, and has good connections to Chengdu, Shanghai and other major cities. Mount Huashan, one of China's sacred mountains, known for its steep paths and cliff walks, is around two hours away by train. Two full days is the minimum for the city, and three if you plan to include Huashan.