Kathmandu

The Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site is made up of seven monument zones within a 30-kilometre radius: a density of cultural patrimony that, if it existed in Europe, would be among the most-visited places on earth. Boudhanath, the largest stupa in Nepal, is thought to date back well over a thousand years and is the centre of one of the largest Tibetan Buddhist communities outside Tibet. The stupa's eyes, painted on all four cardinal sides of the tower, are photographed millions of times and remain unsettling in person.

Pashupatinath, on the banks of the Bagmati River, is one of the holiest Hindu temples in Asia and the site of public cremations on the ghats, conducted with the openness that defines Hindu funerary practice throughout the subcontinent. Swayambhunath, on a hilltop west of the city, is equally ancient and home to a resident population of rhesus monkeys that have achieved a working truce with the pilgrims. The three Durbar Squares (Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur) each represent a different Malla-dynasty interpretation of royal civic space and are within thirty minutes of each other.

Kathmandu is also the beginning of almost everything: the permit office for Everest base camp, the flights to Lukla (which in the busy seasons often leave from Ramechhap, a few hours' drive away), the road to Pokhara and the Annapurnas, the long route to Mustang. We design itineraries that use the city as a proper starting point rather than a transit night, with a day in Bhaktapur (the best-preserved of the three cities) and an early morning at Boudhanath before the tour groups arrive.

The valley's temples and stupas are woven into daily life. At Boudhanath, pilgrims walk clockwise around the stupa at dawn and dusk, spinning prayer wheels and murmuring mantras, and the surrounding monasteries welcome respectful visitors. At Pashupatinath, sadhus, Hindu holy men with ash-smeared bodies and elaborate hair, gather around the temple complex; the main temple is open only to Hindus, but the ghats and surrounding shrines can be visited from across the river. Swayambhunath, known as the Monkey Temple, is reached by a steep stairway and offers views over the city.

Thamel, the traveller district, is busy with trekking shops, guesthouses and restaurants, and makes a convenient base, though it can be noisy. Quieter options include the areas around Boudhanath, Patan, where many restored houses have become boutique hotels, and the hills on the edge of the valley. Patan, with its museums and craft workshops, feels calmer than central Kathmandu, and Bhaktapur, with its car-free centre and potters' square, is best experienced overnight.

The 2015 earthquake damaged many monuments across the valley, and restoration continues. Several temples have been rebuilt with traditional methods, while others remain under repair.

The hills around the valley offer walks and viewpoints. Nagarkot, on the eastern rim, has sunrise views of the Himalaya on clear days. The Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, just north of the city, has forest trails and monasteries. Chandragiri, reached by cable car, offers panoramic views on clear mornings. For a closer view of Everest, mountain flights leave Kathmandu at dawn, flying along the Himalaya for an hour.

Newari food, the cuisine of the valley's original inhabitants, is one of the city's great pleasures. Momos, steamed dumplings, are found everywhere. Samay baji, a platter of beaten rice, spiced meat, beans and pickles, is a ceremonial dish. Juju dhau, the rich yoghurt of Bhaktapur, is a local speciality.

The best times to visit are October to November and March to April, when the air is clearest. Dust and air pollution can be heavy in winter and spring, and the monsoon brings rain from June to September. Festivals such as Dashain and Tihar in autumn, and Indra Jatra, when the Kumari is carried through the streets, are spectacular.

The valley deserves at least three days, before or after a trek or a trip to Pokhara or Chitwan.